
Sambrow Journal · Markham
Top vs Bottom Permanent Eyeliner: The Decision Tree (Including the Combo Trap)
When one is enough, why combo gets oversold, and the eye shapes where lower liner makes you look tired — by Sam Liang
TL;DR
Permanent eyeliner is sold in two formats — upper lash line enhancement (between the lashes, $400–550 in Markham) and lower lash line enhancement (along the lower waterline, $350–450), often bundled as a 'combo' at $700–900. The honest truth: 70% of clients only need upper. Upper opens the eye visually, lasts 18–24 months, and works on every eye shape. Lower brightens the lower lid area but fades faster (12–18 months), shrinks the eye on hooded or mature lids, and adds complexity to healing. Combo is appropriate only for younger clients (typically under 35), almond or round eye shapes, and people who already wear bottom liner daily. This guide compares both options head-to-head — pain, healing, retention, suitability — so you can pick the right one rather than the most expensive one.
Upper Lash Line Enhancement
Pigment between the upper lashes — invisible line, dense-lash illusion
- Best for
- Anyone who wants brighter, more awake eyes without a visible liner look
- Duration
- 18–24 months before touch-up
- Comfort
- 2–3 / 10 with proper double numbing
- Finish
- Invisible lash density — looks like you slept 9 hours
Pros
- + Works on every eye shape including hooded, monolid, downturned
- + Heals in 14 days with the least disruption (makeup restrictions only affect lid)
- + Lasts longest of any eyeliner work — 18–24 months
- + Photographs naturally — no harsh line in selfies or video
- + Markham price $400–550 including the 6–8 week touch-up
Cons
- − Subtle effect — clients expecting a bold liner look will be underwhelmed
- − Does not address tired-looking under-eye area
- − Requires a fresh mascara tube from Day 15 (small recurring cost)
Lower Lash Line Enhancement
Pigment along the lower waterline border — brightens but visible at close range
- Best for
- Younger clients (under 35), almond/round eye shapes, daily bottom-liner wearers
- Duration
- 12–18 months before touch-up
- Comfort
- 2–4 / 10 — slightly more sensation due to tear-duct proximity
- Finish
- Definition and brightness — looks like a soft pencil line healed in
Pros
- + Brightens the entire lower lid area — reduces tired-eye look on younger faces
- + Smaller area, shorter session (45–60 min vs 90 min for upper)
- + Markham price $350–450 — the cheapest eyeliner option
- + Pairs well visually with upper work for clients who want defined eyes
Cons
- − Fades faster — 12–18 months vs 18–24 for upper
- − On hooded eyes, mature lids or downturned eyes, can make the eye look smaller / more tired
- − Higher technical risk — pigment migration toward the tear duct can occur with under-trained artists
- − Contact lens break of 10 days post-session (vs 5 for upper)
- − Visible at close conversational distance — not as subtle as upper
At a Glance
| Upper Lash Line Enhancement | Lower Lash Line Enhancement | |
|---|---|---|
| Markham price (incl. touch-up) | $400–550 | $350–450 |
| Session time | 75–90 min | 45–60 min |
| Pain (with double numbing) | 2–3 / 10 | 2–4 / 10 |
| Surface healing / full settle | 14 days / 4–6 weeks | 14 days / 4–6 weeks |
| Retention window | 18–24 months | 12–18 months |
| No-contact-lens window | 5 days | 10 days |
| Suits hooded eyes | Yes | Often no — can shrink the eye |
| Suits monolid | Yes — excellent | Caution — depends on lash density |
| Suits mature lids (40+) | Yes | Often no — risk of tired look |
| Combo with the other recommended for | Most clients | Almond / round, under 35 only |
How to Choose
Choose Upper Only
Choose this if you have hooded eyes, monolids, mature lids, or want the most invisible-yet-impactful result. This is the safest first-time eyeliner decision — 70% of Sambrow first-time clients land here and 80% of them never add a lower.
Choose Lower Only
Choose this if you already wear bottom liner daily, have round or almond eyes, are under 35, and want a soft cat-eye brightening effect rather than dense lash. Rare as a stand-alone — most who book lower also want upper eventually.
Choose Combo (Upper + Lower)
Choose this only if both individual options above suit you. Combo on the wrong eye shape costs $200+ extra for a worse final look. If unsure, start with upper, live with it for 6 weeks, then add lower at the touch-up if you genuinely miss it. Most clients who do this report not needing lower at all.
Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing Upper vs Lower
If I am doing both, do I do them on the same day or in two sessions? +
Same day, by every reputable Markham artist. Upper goes first (longer session, more numbing time), then lower after a 15-minute break and a re-numbing. Splitting them across two days doubles your healing windows (you would be in restriction mode for 28 days instead of 14) and doubles the appointment fees most studios charge. Combined session runs 2–2.5 hours total.
Will adding lower eyeliner make me look older? +
On clients 40+, on hooded or downturned eyes, or on faces with already-shadowed under-eye areas — yes. Bottom liner emphasises the lower lid border and can read as 'tired' or 'aged' rather than 'defined'. On younger faces, almond or round eyes, and bright under-eye areas it works the opposite way and brightens. A $0 test: draw a soft bottom liner with a pencil, photograph yourself in three lighting conditions (window light, ring light, harsh overhead), and see if you like it. If the pencil version looks tired, the permanent version will too.
Is bottom eyeliner more dangerous than top? +
Not in trained hands. The needle never enters the eye in either procedure. Lower lash line work uses a sterile eye-safe contact shield (similar to a soft contact lens) to protect the cornea. In studios with proper training, complication rates are statistically identical. The real risk is under-trained artists doing lower — pigment migration into the tear duct area is more common with low-volume practitioners. Ask how many lower-lash sessions the artist does per year before booking.
What about adding a tiny wing? Is that 'lower' or 'upper'? +
Wings extend from the upper lash line outward — so a winged eyeliner is technically an extended upper. The wing adds 15–25 minutes to the upper session and roughly $50–100 to the price. Wings work best on almond eyes, are challenging on downturned or hooded eyes (the wing must be drawn at a corrective angle that fights the eye's natural slope), and are not recommended as a first eyeliner project. Get a standard upper first; if you still want the wing at the 6-week touch-up, add it then.
Can I do just lower if I already have lash extensions? +
Yes, but you must remove the lash extensions 48 hours before the session and not refill them for at least 6 weeks (after touch-up healing). The cyanoacrylate adhesive in lash extensions is chemically incompatible with the still-stabilising lower lid pigment edge. If you cannot live without extensions, schedule them around your lip blush cycle instead and reserve lower eyeliner for an extension-break period.
How do I know if my eye shape suits lower? +
Self-test in a mirror: place your fingertip lightly on the lower waterline border. If the eye widens visually, lower will brighten you — proceed. If the eye narrows or the lash border feels heavier, lower will close the eye and you should skip it. Check three age markers too — under-eye darkness visible more than 50% of days, visible crow's feet at the outer corner, tired-looking eyes in unedited photos. Two or more 'yes' answers mean lower will likely emphasise rather than brighten.
Can I get upper now and decide on lower at the touch-up? +
Yes — this is what we recommend to every undecided client. Adding lower to the 6–8 week touch-up appointment costs the same as a standalone lower session (no bundling penalty for splitting). You will have lived with upper for 6 weeks, seen it in real lighting, and have real data on whether you want more. About 60% of clients who say 'maybe lower later' decide they do not need it once upper has fully healed.
I have an old eyeliner tattoo from years ago — should that change my decision? +
Yes. Old saturated black tattoos (often blue-green faded by the time you book) need to be addressed first. Modern semi-permanent pigment laid over old tattoo can read muddy or bluish. Two paths: (1) laser removal first (Q-switched, 3–5 sessions, $200–400 each), then permanent makeup 6 weeks after the final laser, or (2) corrective colour work to neutralise the cool undertones before final design. Either path requires an in-person consultation — we do not quote either remotely from a photo.
Still deciding? Here is the full eyeliner cluster.